{"id":17172,"date":"2022-05-23T07:43:03","date_gmt":"2022-05-23T05:43:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/surbooke.fr\/wordpress\/?p=17172"},"modified":"2022-07-05T15:57:19","modified_gmt":"2022-07-05T13:57:19","slug":"chef-gautier-battistella-editions-grasset","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/surbooke.fr\/wordpress\/2022\/05\/23\/chef-gautier-battistella-editions-grasset\/","title":{"rendered":"Chef, Gautier Battistella, \u00c9ditions Grasset"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

L’histoire de la cuisine fran\u00e7aise<\/strong> depuis la fin de la seconde guerre mondiale. Un festival d’inventivit\u00e9s, un atout \u00e9conomique national, des chefs adul\u00e9s sur les cinq continents et qui ont su faire preuve d’une \u00e9nergie inimaginable. Des \u00e9quipes surdou\u00e9es, qui travaillent les viandes et les sauces, transforment les poissons, font cuire les l\u00e9gumes de mille mani\u00e8res avant de sublimer les desserts. Mais aussi des pratiques peu rago\u00fbtantes, l’exploitation des petites mains, la misogynie, les agressions sexuelles et les viols, les coups bas entre confr\u00e8res, les ego surdimensionn\u00e9s. Et \u00e9galement les r\u00e8gles non \u00e9crites que font appliquer les parrains de la profession, ceux que la r\u00e9ussite a plac\u00e9s tout en haut dans le m\u00e9tier. Avec pour tous les cuisiniers l’objectif d’acc\u00e9der \u00e0 la cons\u00e9cration du guide Michelin et de ne pas la perdre. Car ces rois des fourneaux remettent en jeu leur troph\u00e9e \u00e0 chaque repas, soit deux fois par jour. C’est ce que nous raconte le romancier Gautier Battistella, ancien du Guide, en nous pr\u00e9sentant la vie de Paul Renoir, n\u00e9 dans une modeste auberge gersoise et qui va \u00e0 la force du poignet gagner le titre de \u00ab meilleur cuisinier du monde \u00bb avant de se suicider. Une fin qui n’a rien de fictionnelle puisque c’est ainsi qu’est mort Bernard Loiseau, une ic\u00f4ne de la cuisine fran\u00e7aise au d\u00e9but des ann\u00e9es 2000.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab Chez Yvonne<\/em> tout<\/em> est<\/em> bon<\/em> \u00bb<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

On va donc suivre en alternance le parcours de Renoir, et ce qui s’est pass\u00e9 dans son restaurant apr\u00e8s sa mort quand le roman se transforme en thriller. Nous allons d\u00e9couvrir les enjeux de la restauration de haut vol, une activit\u00e9 o\u00f9 l’on peut \u00e0 la fois gagner beaucoup d’argent et en perdre \u00e9norm\u00e9ment, puisqu’on y d\u00e9pense sans compter. Pour nous le faire comprendre Gautier Battistella nous d\u00e9crit le cheminement de Paul Renoir en commen\u00e7ant par son apprentissage au c\u00f4t\u00e9 de sa grand-m\u00e8re du c\u00f4t\u00e9 de Lectoure, puis sa premi\u00e8re \u00e9toile glan\u00e9e dans un troquet boulevard de Clichy. La seconde arrive apr\u00e8s la reprise de l’\u00e9tablissement familial, et la cons\u00e9cration parfaitement improbable intervient sur les rives du lac d’Annecy. L’histoire d\u00e9bute avec Yvonne qui accroche une ardoise \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 d’une dizaine de tables dans la ferme familiale. On peut y lire \u00ab Chez Yvonne<\/em>, tout<\/em> est<\/em> bon<\/em> \u00bb. C’est ici que Paul Renoir d\u00e9couvre le m\u00e9tier de cuisinier. Un jour Eug\u00e9nie Brazier s’arr\u00eate chez Yvonne. La m\u00e8re lyonnaise qui a form\u00e9 Bocuse, une des deux premi\u00e8res femmes gratifi\u00e9es de trois \u00e9toiles au Michelin, convainc Yvonne de transformer sa cuisine. Plus de cochons de lait ni de canards confits, place aux soles, aux tournedos Rossini et aux cailles poch\u00e9es. Le niveau de la gastronomie s’\u00e9l\u00e8ve et les tarifs s’adaptent. Les paysans du coin qui d\u00e9boulaient apr\u00e8s la messe c\u00e8dent la place aux notables qui prennent leurs marques dans le nouveau restaurant phare du Sud-Ouest. Pour Paul c’est le d\u00e9but d’une longue ascension culinaire qui va le mener au firmament. \u00c7a n’est pas facile, il faut travailler dur et savoir saisir les opportunit\u00e9s. Il fait ses gammes comme grouillot chez Bocuse, t\u00e2te de la brigade endiabl\u00e9e \u00e0 Paris, il apprend les bases.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L’occasion pour monsieur Paul d’inventer la soupe VGE<\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

Une des forces du roman est de nous faire rencontrer plusieurs g\u00e9n\u00e9rations de cuisiniers. D’abord celle des Bocuse, Troisgros et des Gu\u00e9rard qui triomphent dans leurs restaurants, se mettent \u00e0 vendre des livres, et sont m\u00eame invit\u00e9s \u00e0 l’Elys\u00e9e. L’occasion pour monsieur Paul d’imaginer la soupe VGE, agr\u00e9ment\u00e9e de truffes noires et recouverte de p\u00e2te feuillet\u00e9e. Ce qui lui permet d’annoncer au pr\u00e9sident qu’on va pouvoir casser la croute. C’est l’\u00e2ge d’or de la cuisine fran\u00e7aise, et Bocuse sait en jouir avec ses copains puisqu’il laisse les r\u00eanes de son \u00e9tablissement \u00e0 ses \u00e9quipes autant que n\u00e9cessaire. La p\u00e9riode n’est toutefois que transitoire, les modes \u00e9voluent, les influenceurs am\u00e9ricains apparaissent jusqu’a ce que triomphe la cuisine mol\u00e9culaire dont les d\u00e9tracteurs disent qu’avec elle il n’y a rien dans l’assiette et tout sur l’addition. Amoureux de la tradition ou renifleurs de nouvelles envies, tous ces artistes ont en commun la r\u00e9ussite sociale. Mais ils vivent aussi avec la peur de la d\u00e9ch\u00e9ance issue d’un critique gastronomique aussi convaincant qu’un journaliste de cin\u00e9ma qui aurait trouv\u00e9 \u00ab trop<\/em> ronde<\/em> la<\/em> fesse<\/em> gauche<\/em> de<\/em> Scarlett Johansson<\/em> \u00bb.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

L’histoire de la cuisine fran\u00e7aise depuis la fin de la seconde guerre mondiale. Un festival d’inventivit\u00e9s, un atout \u00e9conomique national, des chefs adul\u00e9s sur les cinq continents et qui ont su faire preuve d’une \u00e9nergie inimaginable. Des \u00e9quipes surdou\u00e9es, qui travaillent les viandes et les sauces, transforment les poissons, font cuire les l\u00e9gumes de mille […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":17890,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[14,15,3],"tags":[11],"class_list":["post-17172","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cuisine","category-roman-francais","category-coup-de-coeur","tag-grasset"],"yoast_head":"\nChef, Gautier Battistella, \u00c9ditions Grasset - Surbook\u00e9<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/surbooke.fr\/wordpress\/2022\/05\/23\/chef-gautier-battistella-editions-grasset\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Chef, Gautier Battistella, \u00c9ditions Grasset - Surbook\u00e9\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"L’histoire de la cuisine fran\u00e7aise depuis la fin de la seconde guerre mondiale. Un festival d’inventivit\u00e9s, un atout \u00e9conomique national, des chefs adul\u00e9s sur les cinq continents et qui ont su faire preuve d’une \u00e9nergie inimaginable. 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